Alpacas Industry
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The alpaca has come a long way in history. From being raised by Incan villagers thousands of years ago to being part of a multi-million dollar textile industry today, these lovable animals have proved to be a fabulous source of wool and friendly animals to breed and raise. Read below to discover the history of alpacas and their contribution to the textile industry today and in the past. |
Part 1: Ancient History of the Alpaca
Pre-Incan Alpacas
Alpacas are believed to have been used in societies of the Central Andes for around 6,000 years. They were part of a group of animals called camelids. Camelids were domesticated through sheepherding and breeding from around 3500 BC. Pre-Incan cultures used alpacas for clothing and nourishment, but the Inca society is the first noted to have systematic breeding programs for camelids. They would carefully select and separate flocks of alpacas based on certain characteristics and colors.
Alpacas' Role in the Incan Society
The Incans in South America used alpaca wool for textile along with cotton and other llama fibers. They realized the many benefits of using this wool; they often reserved the fabrics for royalty. The fabric was so durable that archaeologists are still discovering alpaca fabric pieces that were made almost 2,000 years ago.
Ayllus, or clans of Incan families, lived and worked as teams. A chief, called a curaca, was placed over each ayllus. The Incan families lived in homes made of mud and stone with thatched-roofs. Their basic food was potatoes. Royal Incans were also called Imperial Incans, and wore apparel made of alpaca wool.
The Incans were expert hand-weavers, making amazing fabrics with alpaca wool. Alpacas were used to help with burdens as well as a source of dung, which was used for fuel. A particular wild alpaca called the "vicua" was often caught and sheared by Incans. Then they would set it free. This alpaca produced the highest quality of wool in that day. Vicua wool was so coveted in the Inca society that these alpacas were eventually hunted to near extinction. Vicuas are now protected in national parks by the Peruvian government.
To illustrate how important alpacas were to the Incans, one must take a look into their everyday dealings. First , Incan weavers developed roofs, bridges and fibers; patterns of knots were used to record their wealth. Nobles were rewarded with alpaca cloth for being loyal. Incan armies were paid with alpaca-based textiles. Defeated lords were given bundles of alpaca textiles to soothe them after a defeat. The Incans had storehouses full of alpaca material. When the armies retreated from a battle, they deliberately burned these storehouses. Making cloth - especially alpaca cloth - was the backbone of enterprise for the Incans.
Alpacas and Religion
Incans also conducted religious ceremonies with alpacas. According to Andean mythology, some Incans associated alpacas with a goddess called "Pachmana," or "Earth Mother." These Incans believed that alpacas were a gift from Pachmana or lent to them as long as they raised and took good care of them. Alpacas were offered as a gift on the mountain called Ausangate in Peru, according to legend.
Spanish Invasion
For hundreds of years, the Incans carried on with this way of life. It was a simple, peaceful life of raising alpacas and living off the land. However, the Incan way of life would abruptly come to an end as a result of a Spanish invasion that occurred during the reign of Lord Atahuallpa. The Spanish Conquistadors came to the area and knew how important alpacas were to the Incan society. They strangled Lord Atahuallpa after he led them to a treasure of gold. The Spanish then slaughtered alpacas and llamas throughout the area. Some accounts record that as many as 90% of South American alpacas were killed during this time. Natives were able to save a few alpacas by getting them to safety at the altiplano.
After the invasion, a remnant of Incans and alpacas were left, but the systematic breeding of the Incans would forever be lost. They began to crossbreed, and this caused a deterioration of the quality of animals and wool. By the 1700s, there was a small remnant of native herds left in Peru, Chile and Bolivia - typically in the high altiplano region.
Part 2: Rediscovering Alpaca Fabric
It wasn't until the 1800s that beautiful alpaca fabric was rediscovered by a man in London named Sir Titus Salt, who was a young manufacturer in Bradford. In 1836, the city of Bradford in West Yorkshire, England had become a center for textile manufacturing. When cotton warps were introduced into the Bradford industry, alpaca wool was finally deemed usable in the textile world. Previous attempts at using the wool on a large scale had failed.
Salt began using alpaca fabric in his clothing factory after the cotton warps were introduced. His clothing was meant to be worn by the noble and elite class of England. Salt promoted the use of alpaca wool to some of the most elaborate fashion houses and textile mills in Europe. Today, Bradford is still a center for alpaca fabric manufacturing. Cloths and yarns are exported in large quantities from Bradford each year to the United States.
In 1858, alpacas were introduced to Australia by a man named Charles Ledger, but none of these are believed to have survived. In 1984, alpacas were first imported to the United States and Canada. They were imported into New Zealand and Australia in 1989.
These countries were very successful at breeding alpacas for two reasons:
1. Climate - Alpacas were used to living in the very cold climate of the Andes. However, they have been known to die when exposed to extremely cold weather if they are shorn too early. They can also have heat stress during hot summer months. The moderate climates in these countries were more suitable for alpaca breeding.
2. Better Breeding Techniques - These countries also had more sophisticated breeding techniques, enabling them to breed more alpacas with better quality wool.
There are now over 30,000 herds in North America alone. The imports have made a major difference in the alpaca breeding and fashion world. Alpacas were imported by either plane or ship, with a large portion of imports occurring between 1984 and 1998. U.S. alpacas that were qualified received a pedigree registration by the Alpaca Registry, Inc., certifying each animal's lineage, date of birth, color, etc. DNA blood testing was used to ensure accurate breeding information. In 1998, the U.S. breeders stopped the flow of imports coming in by closing the pedigree registry.
Part 3: Alpacas and the Rich and Famous
Incans weren't the only ones who used alpaca clothing for royalty; today is no different. For example, Evo Morales, President of Bolivia, wore a gorgeous colorful alpaca sweater to meet with dignitaries from around the world. He (and his sweater) grabbed attention everywhere. Morales had been raised in a family of llama herders and knew the tremendous comfort and durability of alpaca material.
Exclusive Alpaca Fabrics
Not long after the importation of alpacas to the western world, many who lived a luxurious lifestyle saw the tremendous value and fashion appeal of alpaca fabrics. Fashion shows dedicated to alpaca clothing and accessories now exist in all the major centers for fashion such as Paris, Milan, Tokyo and New York. Designers often focus on the rarest, most extravagant fabric and style in their shows. Therefore, some of the most unique alpaca fabrics are in high demand and very expensive.
Here are a couple of examples below:
Baby Alpaca: A Rare Commodity
Although all alpaca wool is luxurious and in high demand, baby alpaca wool is the rarest of all. It is a precious fiber that's not readily available outside of Andean countries in South America. The reason baby alpaca fiber is so popular is because it is smoother than that of older alpacas, and each fiber that is less than 19 microns in diameter is classified as "royal." Baby alpaca fabrics are extremely lightweight and soft.
Vicuna: Exclusive to the Wealthy
Vicuna is another rare form of alpaca wool that is so fine that less than 200 grams of fleece is yielded every two years. A shawl alone can be produced from the shearing of around ten Vicuna! It is highly exclusive. Many Hollywood stars have been seen wearing Vicuna because of its look and feel - and its rarity.
Brand Names with Alpaca Fabrics
Alpaca items are being blended with other name brand clothing and accessories, which also helps spread its popularity. For example, Southwick is known for its comfortable and durable wool and flannel suits, with some retailing at around $1,000. Southwick also offers alpaca sport coats now, with some retailing at around $700 for one coat. Schneiders, a company that offers beautiful silk, wool and cashmere coats now offers them in alpaca also. These can be priced anywhere from $700 to $900! Alpaca fabric is also being used to reproduce well-known styles in the fashion world. For instance, the alpaca polo sweater can usually be purchased for around $150.
Fleece's Worth
How much is an alpaca's fleece really worth? The fleece might sell for amounts as high as $40 per pound, depending on the breed, quality and color. One alpaca can produce five to eight pounds of wool per year. This amount can be used to make several sweaters. That's why alpaca items are so rare and often expensive. One men's sweater is knitted from a pound of yarn - dollar value $40. Then, another $100 is spent for labor in knitting the sweater. The sweater might sell for $400. Some alpaca suits have sold for $3000!
Part 4: Demand in the Alpaca Market
As with any market, the supply and demand of alpaca fleece has been out of balance due to the limited number of alpacas and breeders in the world when compared with other industries. This is expected to change, however, as more and more families, individuals and professional breeders become aware of alpacas.
Over the past two decades, alpaca ownership has increased tremendously. As evidence of this, one would only need to observe the amazing growth of the Alpaca Owners and Breeders Association (AOBA). The AOBA began in 1988 with only 87 members. Today, there are close to 4,000 members who own more than 50,000 alpacas! The association is now representing a billion dollar industry.
Part 5: The Alpaca's Earthly Contributions
Alpacas are very earth-friendly to breed. They are gentle-natured and often form a close relationship of harmony with their owners. They even eat gently! When alpacas graze, they eat grass by only breaking it midway on the blade; the grass roots remain in the ground, keeping the grass planted firmly and neat. Alpacas have soft padded feet that will not damage the ground where they reside. This enables an owner to use less acreage because there is no need to rotate the alpacas frequently for better ground.
Alpacas generally eat less than other livestock. Why? Their stomach has three compartments, which enables them to convert the food they eat to energy very effectively. They also drink less water because they are part of the camelid family. Alpaca dung has been recycled as fertilizer or fuel. Alpacas instinctively create their own communal area in the pasture where they will "go." Less parasite infection is the result.
Other Interesting Alpaca Facts:
*Alpacas are great with children.
*They do not butt or bite.
*They are intelligent and can be easily trained for mobility - even in a SUV or van!
*The best alpaca fleece comes from the backside, rump or shoulder of the alpaca (also called the blanket). .
*Their fiber is naturally thermal because each follicle has a hollow core, and there is very little natural oil in the alpaca's hair.
*Alpacas live to be around 15 to 25 years old, and weigh 105 to 155 pounds.
*A baby alpaca is called a cria.
*South America has an estimated 3 1/2 million alpacas.
Part 6: A Farmer's "American Dream"
Many farmers are turning to raising alpacas because they require minimal care. Even people who have never raised livestock now own alpacas. They offer a tremendous tax benefit and business opportunity. In the U.S., there are around 35,000 alpacas, with the majority being raised by small farmers. Since the closure of imports that would be registered by the U.S. Alpaca Registry, most alpaca farmers have carefully selected only the best males for breeding. This helped U.S. farmers earn a reputation around the world as having very high-quality alpaca fleece.
Benefits of the Wool
Alpaca wool offers many benefits for the owners, but also for the end-product consumers who purchase fashion wear made with the wool. One great benefit is that the wool is hypoallergenic. People who are normally allergic to sheep's wool often find alpaca wool to be safe. It is lightweight and silky, and needs no dyes. Natural colors range from pure white to grey and black. There are 22 colors of alpaca wool that are recognized in the weaving industry.
Part 7: Future of the Alpaca Market
It is believed that the alpaca market will continue to grow and boom for owners, hand-weavers and textile manufacturers. Top fashion designers are becoming more aware of the benefits of alpaca fabric. Healthier alpaca breeding in North America is expected to help contribute to growth for the western market. Strict regulations along with registration of alpacas help to ensure the quality of fabric offered.
Prices are expected to remain high over the next decade for quality stock due to the limited supply and increasing demand. Consumers are becoming familiar with the dye-free materials alpacas provide, realizing that it is also very healthy to wear and easy to wash. There's no lanolin to wash out when an alpaca item is first purchased.
With the aid of the Internet, North American promotional techniques and better overseas relations, international markets for alpacas will also grow in the near future. These cute little animals are being pushed into the spotlight at a rapid speed!
by Candice Pardue
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